Cool Video - Lattice/Macfarlane

This video is ace:


Aside from the copious ads, I really enjoyed watching it and it has some great info that kind of ties in with my finger strength goals. The leader board shows that some of the numbers in my last post were a little off. Oops. Oh well - don't quote me! From what I gleaned watching this video the blogger (Andrew) climbs V7 and he tested the two arm hang with 36kg. They mention that is approximately 50% of body weight, which would give a strength/weight of ~75% per hand. Then they say that he is strong enough to climb V9-V10 and needs to work on using momentum to get there. What!!??

He is also fit enough to climb 7c (5.12d) after doing 106 moves on the lattice board at 20 degree angle. Another stat that I can use to see if I am physically 5.13 ready. If I ever get around to actually climbing routes outside.

Maybe I just need to sign up and do the Lattice Test...!

Anyway, for now, I'm sticking with my 80% target for sending V8 as it is a nice round number. If I get there and still can't climb that hard then it will be time to focus on movement and becoming a better climber. OR if I never manage to get to 80% due to my age and weight...then there is still hope for me to focus on technique. 



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